Following on from the “Where to Eat” blog post I thought I’d suggest several options on how to get there.

I often hear people say San Sebastian is not a weekend destination due to its distance from the airports. This is true, it’s not a “15 min transfer”, more like an hour long drive or coach through the beautiful Basque countryside. Elsewhere you may have to endure the suburbia or various below ground trains, but here, the drive/bus/coach trip is so thrilling it’s a steal at 10 or so euros.  Another way around the “weekend” predicament is to simply go for longer. Steal a day off work to go Donostia. Lie, be sick…resign but make sure you go.

Air

London to Bilbao. The obvious and quick route. Low cost Vueling and Easy Jet will get you there in just under 2 hours…quicker than your commute to/from work….think about it. You can get a coach from the airport direct to San Sebastian.

London to Bordeaux. Slightly shorter flight at one and a half hours but a longer drive or coach ride at 2 and a half hours. 

London to Biarritz. Options from Ryanair, Airfrance and others. Unless you are driving the transfer is complicated. Coach/bus probably easiest but there is also Eusko train but you have to get to the train station, Hendaye, from the airport. Personally I think Biarritz is a great destination in itself so perhaps plan to visit and eat your way around town before moving on to Donostia (as part of your 6 week grand tour of the Basque Country!).
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Air travel
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Everybody loves the sleeper, remember the wine
Train

Ok so you’ve resigned, packed up and decided to take the slower lane in life. Forget security checks, long queues, seatbelts and other restrictions that offset the speed of air with the frustration of the entire process. Sleep your way there on…the train.

From Kings Cross catch Eurostar to Paris Gare du Nord station. You have to change station in Paris to Gare d’Austrlitz,  which is annoying but by cab it’s only 15 euros or so. Don’t get the Metro as it doesn’t fit in with the vibe of this slow motion option of getting there. You will be travelling overnight, leaving around half nine and arriving in Hendaye at 9am, from here you get on the charming Eusko train to San Sebastian.

This is not luxurious travel but an experience in itself. The couchettes are small and old but on our trip were very clean and comfortable. Of course you don’t want to share, if you are 2 so make sure you double check the options when you book. Don’t forget to buy at least two bottles of French wine, some baguette and other bits for the train picnic. More info available here

Train and luxury

Take the train hotel that is Elipsos, a Spanish operated overnight service from Paris. It’s the more expensive option but nothing selling your car and house to finance your permanent move to the Basque Country won’t cover. There is one unsatisfying experience here, the train arrives to Vitora-Gasteiz at 4 o’clock in the morning. An hour drive will get you to San Sebastian.

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The restaurant on Ellipsos
Sea travel

Just as slow but not as comfortable (if you suffer frm travel sickness anyway!) option is to go by ferry. The allure of the sun, sea and fresh air is quickly brought to its knees by the comedy show, expensive beer and the truckers. Maybe a bit harsh…how do I put it, don’t go with your girlfriend/boyfriend…group of guys, yes. There is only one reason to get the ferry, the boot of your car rental and the back seats. The Duty on “good times” in the UK is, Wine £2/btl, Spirits £7.41/btl, Sherry £2.67/btl sad times I know, so get a lot of boot space and leave the kids at home because HMRC limits allow the following:
Please feel free to contribute your own travel experiences and suggestions in the comment box below!
 
 
On our latest sourcing trip we drove from Galicia  through Asturias, Cantabria ending up in "Pais Vasco", the Basque Country. This time we were not in search of wine (discovered some great ones anyway) but cider or as the Basque call it, “sagardo”.

Cider has grown in popularity in the recent decade, even Stella are doing it (yikes!). The UK government was quick to catch on the trend too, with a 10% duty hike in the 2010 budget. This decision received such a public outcry; loudest coming from the South West of the country naturally, the new government quickly shelved the decision.

With growing popularity come risks. Industrialised and unloved, the big business has done for cider what generic blends have done for wine. Funky labels, long shelf life and big advertising budgets have reduced the delicious taste of cider to a “one-for-all” supermarket product line. Ask any self-respecting  cider drinker about the products which currently represent the cider industry and watch their cheeks flush up in rage.

Northern Spain has a long standing relationship with gastronomy so it was no surprise to find the cider was well produced, cloudy and natural. But what makes it different, why has it caught our attention and seduced our palate?

With so many great wines in this region, at first our interests were easily side tracked by the likes of the delicious Txakoli (pronounced cha-co-li), a light, slightly carbonated local white wine gem. The mistake not to make is to think once you have found one discovery there will not be others. This terroir here has an insatiable offer as our cider discovery has shown.

As we set out to satisfy our inquisitive appetite and further this encounter, the more we travelled and spoke to locals the more we realised just how big a part cider was to this society. It was entrenched in the history, tradition, gastronomy (of course) but most of all everyday life. Everything from how the apples are grown, selected, crushed, bottled and served is unique. But just being different is not enough. We are surprised just how humble and unpretentious the locals are with something of such high quality.

A string of taste provoking metaphors to describe this cider simply wont do here, you have to try it to appreciate the flavour of the hand selected apples and the fizz induced by the overhead pour.

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A fine demonstration of the traditional pouring method. The cider is poured in small quantities and drunk quickly before the natural fizz disappears
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Well... one needs a snack